TASTING NOTES ON “TORRE D’ORTI MORARI” Valpolicella Superiore D.O.C. 2006
Year 2008 number 2
TASTING NOTES ON 'TORRE D'ORTI MORARI' Valpolicella Superiore D.O.C. 2006
Marcellise is one of the most interesting districts of the extended Valpolicella zone. The top-quality soils here are the ideal terrain for the vines of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. A new project for vinifying a great red wine is now taking shape in this very picturesque zone of the Province of Verona. It expresses all the quality of a terroir that yields wines with concentrated fruit and excellent freshness: characteristics that succeed in counterbalancing generally high levels of alcohol. This, then, is the new Torre dÕOrti Morari, a Valpolicella long awaited by the many wine lovers who are familiar with the excellent vinification skills of the Piona family.
The colour of this Valpolicella Superiore is a deep ruby red, with bright purplish highlights that make it particularly inviting. One is aware, even from the way it runs down the sides of the glass, of the wineÕs substantial structure, with its rich extract and broad, viscous "legs".
Its bouquet is particularly intense and complex, with a distinct note of cherry jam that is typical of the grapes that grow in this area. It also offers nuances of bilberries and other wild berry fruits, with mineral hints and suggestions of wild violets. There is a delicate spiciness, too, with overtones of white pepper and cloves. Its initial ethereal notes are counterpointed and moderated by fruit that evolves attractively in the glass. The sensations that derive from the wineÕs ageing are subtle and very elegant.
The wine reveals all of its power on the palate. Its complexity is remarkable even on entry, and an intriguing balsamic tone comes through on the finish. The fruit is appealingly rounded and fleshy; once again, cherry notes clearly dominate. The tannins are evident, but are so well integrated that they do not jar on the palate. Indeed, they have a silky quality that indicates a great potential for evolution in the future. The wineÕs tanginess is another highly appealing characteristic, with a fine mineral note that serves to underline the freshness of the acidity. The finish is long, with attractive bitter-sweet fruit that softens into sensations of liquorice and spices.
The Torre d'Orti Morari happily combines sumptuousness with an easy-to-drink style. Though the level of alcohol is high, one does not perceive it as such thanks to the wine's natural freshness and minerality. For this reason, it may be considered to be a wine whose overall structure will be able to become more balanced and harmonious as time goes on. Its tannins and acidity certainly offer signals of considerable longevity.
This is not a wine for matching with banal food: it calls for succulent dishes that are decidedly rich in flavour and fragrance. Red meats are certainly ideal for being accompanied by a Torre dÕOrti Morari, as is game (of all types) that has been well-hung and marinated in herbs and spices. It is also a wine that makes a classy foil for moderately mature hard cheeses such as, for example, Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P. and Grana Padano D.O.P. that is at least 24 months old, or Monte Veronese di Malga Vecchio D.O.P.. Try it too with moderately mature goat's milk cheeses, such as a Robiola di Roccaverano D.O.P..
This is a wine that should be served in large tulip-shaped glasses with a long stem. It is advisable always to open the bottle some time prior to tasting the wine or serving it at table, and to carry out partial oxygenation in the glass. It is not necessary to use a decanter because it does not have any sediment.
Bernardo Pasquali
